about to take off

A list of things I should think about before buying in India:

1. A silk rug with no shipping
2. Second class trane tickets

I’ve been traveling the last few days and have not had a change to write. There has been a lot going on so here we go:
On Sat I traveled to Jaipur with a stop-over in Mumbai. Unfortunate for me (and quite expected) no one told me that the same plane continues to Jaipur so I get out and start looking for my connecting gate. None to be found. So I exit to find check-in and they look at me like I must have special needs. They proceed to tell me that I have to go back thru security and board the same plane I had just left. Pretty funny considering it almost left without me. I know there are a few of you (Brooke Semel) that are just nodding your head in disbelief, but you already know that’s how I roll.

Jaipur was an awesome city. It was built in the 1700’s as a merchant town and it remains just that. It’s a market everywhere you look; silk, jewels, rugs, whatever you want, they sell. Unfortunately they also have an incredible amount of road congestion with pedestrians, scooters, little moped-taxis and camels. No joke, I have had to cross the street and calculate the approaching speed of a camels and make a rational judgment with zero experience to cross or not. I sprinted. The one thing I did not expect was the amount of little kids that followed and begged everywhere I went . It was heartbreaking. I took the advice of people and tried to keep my money, but some kids got the best of me and took advantage of my not so quick currency conversion skills.

At my hotel room, does anyone else think this is an Indian man's STOOP?

I visited some old palaces and forts built by the Maha Raja’s of the time. The real treat was going to 1000yr old town and fort where the Maha Raja actually lived at the time. The place was insanely big, with Turkish baths, a courtyard for elephant polo, 4 palaces each with identical rooms for his 2 wives (a Hindu and Muslim wife). Words can’t describe the place so here are some picks. On the way, I came to understand that the preferred modes of transportation in Rajashthan are 1) scooters 2) camel 3) elephant. I don’t know why its not elephants straight up.

Camels are decevingly fast and they dont check their blind spots.

This was my attempt to take a picture of myself. Per the usual, I showed up late.
One of the Palace entrances:
How amazing would elephant polo be on this court?
With some time to spare I went to the jewelry market and visited a few places. They are quick to offer you tea (which I am told helps loosen your pockets). The stones are not cheaper than anywhere else in the world, but the craftsmanship is second to none. I drank some tea and watched them put on the ACT: show me everything that is special of the region, give me a special discount, and as I ponder the 5K purchase (which there is no way I am buying!- sorry mom) they go talk to their manager and give me a very secret special. I pull the usual and say I will shop some more and return at which point they call the owner and offer me their best price. They fall short of following you to the car and throwing their last offer through the window. I loved the whole dance and I am positive tourists fall for it.
Markets:

After two days in Jaipur I wake up early to catch a train to Ranthambore (a tiger reservoir) the line to get tickets was about an hour long and no seats in first class available. Knowing that 2nd class may or may not include riding the train on the outside, I decided to catch a cab and pay the extra cash. The cab driver was awesome. He had the perfect set of original aviator ray bans and a sailor hat, yes a sailor hat! I couldn’t make this up if a tried. He took me down a short-cut, a short cut that meant going through the Indian version of Kansas with nothing to see. It actually gave me a good idea of what Indian life is like outside of the cities: the good, communities that seem to all contribute to the town and the bad, the extremely poverished that have nothing but a straw hut.

Not in the broshures:

I arrived in Ranthambore and quickly hopped on a jeep and went on a tiger safari. The reserve was amazingly beautiful ; almost right out of the jungle book. No dancing bears, orangutans or tigers to be seen., but I saw plenty of monkeys, peacocks, vultures, antelope, deer and all sorts of birds. No tigers though. I was told it was a tough day to see any since it was 95 degrees. I was a bit disappointed but I still saw some amazing wilderness.

I must say, I look like I belong chasing tigers:

These trees are amazing. Filled with monkeys.

Tomorrow I go to Agra and the Taj .More to come from there.

A note on the Indian people: They are some of the nicest people I have ever encountered. In times when I have been lost and truly needed someone to help , they help. In times when I am eating by myself and need some company, they accompany me. Truly a country filled with the nicest people in the world. Sorry, Iceland.

Back to the grind from Goa. Great little weekend getaway: beach, nice hotel, night life and temples. I left Bangalore at about 4 am (having only slept 2 hrs) and was on the beach by 9 am. Awesome beach, no one in sight and amazing tanning conditions. TT, I'm talking about high intensity, low UV!! I was pretty much the only person on the beach and the waves were good enough to try to surf. Having only tried once and no one around to laugh, I had a blast getting dominated by the Arabian sea. I walked around the beach for hours and then finally found the place to be: Aaron's Beach hut where i sat for lunch, drinks and some local card playing. Indians love playing gin. I had lunch there which was just ridiculous since they had just brought in a catch of shrimp, put it on the grill and served. Best shrimp of my life fo sho.

High intensity, low UV

Viet, this is your type of place.

Cards with the boys. i have no idea what any of their names were.

Shrimp right off the boat:

I stated at the hotel that Skydonk recommended and much to my surprise it was an anti-buzzkill suggestion. The place was amazing and they upgraded me for no reason so I had a suite the size of a house, but only spent about 4 hours in there including sleep.

The place was empty including at the pool.

MUDIS, What? Indian Tea?

After some playing cards with the locals, I went sightseeing to some Hindu temples (no pictures since my camera died). I was very touched by the passion the people had when entering their temple. Everyone brings flower of fruit offerings and say prayers to their respective God(s) . I sat down and just observed what was going on, on which i knew nothing but could definitely appreciate. I was also taken back by the sheer poverty in which the people near the temples live. It would be hard to explain, but I was definitely taken back. This is true everywhere I have been in India but I held back in writing about it, but I think it is worth a note that a majority of the 1 billion people in India live in what we would call poverty.

After a long day d temple hopping, I had some dinner and went out in North Goa. Since i was solo, I pretty much kept to myself, but some cool people from Delhi started talking to me and then we had a good time. I'll be meeting up with them when i swing by Delhi. Anyway, we did nothing more than just smoke a hookah and drink Hoegarden. Actually come to thin about it, it was an amazing night. Mango Passion was definitely a crowd favorite.

Saturday night: A hoe and a hookah

I could not resist some late night Indian Snacks. Probably the dumbest thing I have done since you have to watch what you eat, but dang it was good!

Went home around 5 am, slept for 3 hours and woke up to go into the jungle. It was an awesome drive up the mountains, again holding on to sweet life while you weave in and out of on-coming traffic. And finally, we come to find the highlight of my Goa trip: his name was babo ( i think). Elephants are enormous when you are 2 ft away from them. I hopped on and tool a stroll a road around a spice plantation. Pretty unique experience . At some point the elephant actually stopped listening to the master and did some growling and started backing up, but a few pats on the head with a bamboo stick and the 3 ton animal conceeded to his 120 lb owner.

Back in Bangalore now, still putting in some long hours but I have Friday to look forward to: the beginning of my tour of India, from Mysore to Delhi in 7 days.

One more note: I lost my bank card, so now i have to figure out how to get money. Is anyone surprised? Things like this are expected when I leave the house.

Chavezing In India

I've been working 15-18 hours a day so I don't have much to blog except for traffic, work and food. More to come from the weekend since I am going to the "miami of India", GOA where I hope to ride an elephant on the beach. Horse ridding on the beach is so JV.

So here goes. Work is good. People are incredibly nice and accommodating. Work is in the middle of India's silicone valley. One things I did not know was the way Indians shake their heads "yes" which is not vertical up and down, but instead side to side (ala shoulder to shoulder), like a bobble head. It freaks you out at first, but you get used to it, and maybe start doing it yourself. maybe. ...definitely.

Here is work: 50 or so kind people taking care of our business back home. Everyone speaks english but not at decimal higher than a whisper. It takes some adjusting.

Office etiquette is taken seriously:

As for traffic, More of the same but check it out:

This guy in the scooter was definitely riding the wrong way.

Just some Gods being Cowlike:

Check out my boy Vincent's Dash. That is Vishnu and Mary tag-teaming his protection.
Food: Incredible. half the time I don't even know what I am eating. the NAAN, OH! the NAAN!. Most every restaurant I have been to has a bread menu. Indian bread is ridonk. I am definitely going to try to smuggle some home and maybe a papaya or two. BTW, people usually say that you loose 5 to 10 lb's when in India ( typically due to stomach viruses and such). Fortunate for me I have had no problems. As a result, I am putting my MONTANA EATING FRENZY to shame. What I am talking about is Indian food Chavezing!!! I am returning with a little extra luggage for sho.

Breakfast of champions:
Post dinner mints ( all types of "minted" dried fruits and nuts). I think you're supposed to take one or two. I ate half of the block:

This one is interesting: Rose pedals dipped in white chocolate with strawberry chutney. BOOM!

More on the hotel slash palace. I am not kidding when I say it is ridiculously over-staffed: There is a guy at the gym whose job is to put the weights on the bar for you, and give a water when you look like you need it. I look like I need it a lot apparently.

Security at the lobby. I am told that the car bomb check and the extra security is a result of the terrorist attacks in Mumbai over turkey day. I feel safe.

at the pool..

Hope everyone is doing well. Namaste.

Cows: they act like they're deities or something...

Its been a few days of driving back and forth from palace to office so I thought I would write about some of the rules that govern the traffic patters as described by my Roman Catholic/ Hindu driver, Vincent (perfect name for such a paradox of a man):

1. Drive in the middle of two lanes. ie. maintain yellow line directly center between wheels

2. Should somone cut you off, they are a better driver than you. Conceede.

3. There are no turn signals, enter intersection at everyone's risk.

4. Traffic signs, including but not limited to "yield", "stop", "slow", "wrong way", "not a road", area amere formality. Please ignore.

5. Yield for a) cows, b) no one, c) children (maybe), d) calves

6. Maintain composure as if there is intelligence behind the madness. Note: Vincent is incredible at acting like we didn't just almost hit someone, get hit by someone or both simultaniously.

No joke, we have had to yield to cows walking, resting or being godly on the road. Its incredible. No one seems phased by it. I am.

Some of the taxis/mopeds that you try to avoid hitting:

This is clearly just a funny sign:

Don't worry about the glass, its safe. He has his hand on it.

Allow me to insert a word on the food: Papaya!! What a fruit! I had the best papaya of my life this morning. I really thought that i might never taste anything better, but then I had the mango. I stood corrected. Every meal I've had so far has been incredible. This is definately the highlight so far. Even the things that sound unappetizing like rosted cottage cheese and lamb are incredible. I am going to smell SO bad for the Derby, btw.

So far only one downer that I found out last night: Bars close at midnight which is a real bummer cause the bar in this place is out doors with very chill seating. Fortunately another thing I found out last night is that they serve bar drinks 24 hours a day to your room (currenly sipping on some Glenfiddich 15 yrs). Boom!

Having said that, check out my go-to place for drinks: The library bar. over 50 single malts in stock. Indians love their scotch. TT, you would love this bar. Its the cigar/ lounge/bar we have been talking about having but will actually never execute, for years!!

India- the first 24 hours

Arrived in Bangalore late on sunday around 1am. The hotel had a 7 series beemer waiting for me. It was probably going about 100 mph cruising past little moped-taxis. I was half asleep when it suddenly stopped. much to my surprise, there was a unmanned miniature horse on the street walking all by itself taking up two lanes. It was no taller than Miller with platform boots. We honked and passed it on the right and I swear it looked at us as if he seemed to think he had the right of way.
I arrive at the Leela palace which is exactly what i expected; unreal! I have stayed at nice hotels before but none that had bomb checks at the entrance, metal detectors at the door and a staff that does all but accompany you to the bathroom. Sometimes its a little over the top. For example, there are two people at the lobby elevators and all they do is press buttons for you and wave you in. When you arrive you are escorted by a beautiful Indian woman up to the room. Check in actually happens in your room - a first for me. I walked around Sunday and the place is amazing. Best bath house this side of Istanbul; the kind of spa that makes me never want to go to the Turkish bathhouse in NYC. Stoop & Semel, you guys would be blown away. The service is uncanny; every one greets you by name. I wondered how they all know me, but I forgot to mention that your picture is taken for your profile so everyone knows you. STYYYYLEEE!. More to come...
here are some pics:

The hotel lobby:




View From my room: